Direct Design Stitching: Modern Embroidery Techniques Explained

Embroidery is an incredibly beautiful technique that can add intricacy and sophistication to textile products. It’s often seen as a premium method of decoration, embraced by luxury fashion brands such as Chanel and Elie Saab.

There are a number of transfer methods for embroidery, including tracing and tacking. Water soluble and Frixion erasable pens are suitable for this process, but be aware that these marks can sometimes fail to fully erase.

Tracing and Tacking

Embroidery has long been a beloved handcraft for people of all ages and backgrounds, used to repair clothing and add decorative embellishments to textiles where they stitches the design directly. It’s now also a popular choice for modern artists who use embroidery techniques to create expressive art pieces. From bold embroidered patches for denim jackets to delicate beaded embellishments and mix-media embroidery projects, the possibilities are endless!

One of the most important aspects of starting a new embroidery project is transferring a design onto fabric. Whether it’s using a prick and pounce technique or another method, the quality of the tracing is crucial to successful stitching. In this video, designer and embroiderer Koral Antolin (@faimyxstitch) shares her tips for tracing patterns with carbon paper for accurate results. She also demonstrates how to prep your fabric for stitching, including ensuring it’s tight enough for smoother stitches.

Another great tip for achieving precise tracing is to use an erasable pen. These pens are often water-soluble or air-soluble, which can be a lifesaver if your fabric needs to be washed when you’re finished. Plus, they’re much easier to remove than lead pencil.

If you’re looking for a comprehensive reference guide to embroidery stitches, this book by author, teacher and stitcher Christen Brown is an excellent option. It features detailed diagrams and step-by-step instructions for a wide variety of filling, straight and outline stitches. The stitches are organised into categories using a visual content guide, making it easy to find what you’re looking for. It’s also available in a Kindle edition for added convenience!

While prick and pounce is a more traditional method for transferring designs to fabric, some embroiderers also prefer tacking. This involves stitching over a piece of waste canvas, which is then pulled away when the embroidery is complete. It can be especially useful for transferring freeform designs, as it helps to keep the threads even while working over the surface. In this video from designer and embroiderer Laura Strutt, she teaches her favorite methods for tacking embroidery designs to fabric.

Once you have a finished tracing, it’s time to transfer the design to your embroidery machine. To do this, you’ll need to use the Export as Machine File command. This saves all the information needed to run the design, including stitch types, color changes and embroidery settings, as a single file for your specific machine type. This is a much quicker and more efficient method than trying to scale the design with a simple resize operation, which won’t maintain stitch density as you enlarge or reduce it.

Embroidery is a fun hobby that can be a great way to relax, while also boosting your creativity! Whether you’re creating a statement patch for your favorite denim jacket or a beautiful mandala wall hanging, there are plenty of embroidery tutorials on the internet to help you get started. With a little patience and a bit of practice, you’ll soon be creating your own unique works of art!

Transferring

Embroidery isn’t just a hobby for retirees anymore. Young people are picking up embroidery because it’s trendy, it looks cool, and it’s a great way to express their unique personalities. From trending motifs (feathers, astrology and succulents) to classic motifs like flowers and birds, embroidery isn’t just a craft anymore — it’s art.

Using a digitized design to create an embroidery pattern is a common method but a newer approach allows you to draw directly on the fabric, freehand or aided. This technique is called transferring, and it’s ideal for light fabrics with a solid color or with a patterned surface where you want to make smooth transitions between the short and long stitches of your pattern.

Transferring is done by placing a piece of transfer paper over the embroidery pattern and then positioning the fabric on top. Then, using a pencil, pen or stylus, trace over the pattern on the transfer paper and then follow it with your embroidery thread. This is an easy, quick and relatively inexpensive method to use if you aren’t going to be creating a large, complex design.

The disadvantages of this technique are that it is time consuming and the marks left by the pencil won’t show up very well on darker fabrics. For these reasons, I don’t recommend using this method for large or complicated embroidery designs but it can be an excellent option for a small, simple pattern.

If you do use this method, be sure to practice on a scrap piece of fabric before transferring your design. The amount of pressure needed to transfer the pigment can be difficult to get just right and it is important to have a hard surface underneath to prevent the paper from warping.

Another option for tracing a pattern on dark fabrics is to use a water-soluble marking pen or pencil. These can be purchased at most craft stores and work much the same as a standard pencil but are designed to disintegrate when stitched over with your embroidery.

Finally, a method that works on both light and dark fabrics is to trace your embroidery pattern onto a sheet of tracing paper, then baste the tracing paper to the fabric before stitching through both layers. This is also an excellent option for creating patterns on tubular fabrics and garments that have already been assembled, such as sleeves. When the embroidery is finished, simply tear away the tracing paper. This method is also great for embroidered appliques and for those with a fuzzy surface that can’t be seen through when other transfer methods are used. It’s also very useful for transferring embroidery to corduroy or wool since other methods don’t show up well on these fabrics.

Stitching

Embroidery can be used to embellish clothing, wall hangings and tablecloths, and to create decorative or representational motifs, from a simple floral pattern to the depiction of historical events. The craft has a long history, and it continues to flourish today, bringing ancient techniques together with modern aesthetics. From a beginner’s perspective, learning to embroider can be a daunting prospect, with many stitches, thread types and tools to master. However, with the right guidance, you can be well on your way to a rewarding hobby and a unique form of self-expression.

The traditional method for transferring designs to fabric before stitching is known as “direct drawing.” This involves creating a design on the surface of the fabric freehand or with the aid of a pencil, chalk, or pounce powder. Using these methods, artists can transfer detailed lines or shapes to the fabric before embroidery, and then embroider over them to create the desired effect. One of the most famous examples of direct embroidery is the 11th-century Bayeux Tapestry, which depicts a series of historic events and can be seen at the Musee de la Tapisserie in Bayeux, France.

More recently, a technique called DTF has been used for embroidery designs that require a high level of detail. DTF offers several advantages over the direct-drawing method, including unlimited color options, precise detail, and the ability to create textured effects on the fabric. This makes it a popular choice for logos and other high-profile designs, and it is especially appealing to customers who prefer hand stitching to machine embroidery.

DTF is also an excellent option for customers who want to add embroidery to their custom apparel and accessories, but may not have the equipment or desire to learn how to use embroidery software. A DTF file can be easily converted into a machine-stitchable embroidery design, and BERNINA Embroidery Software 8 offers the ability to save or export stitch files for future use.

Embroidery is enjoying a resurgence among consumers, with Vogue editor Anna Wintour declaring it one of the hottest crafting trends of 2020. From embellished jeans to cheeky throw pillows, embroidery has found a place in the hearts of consumers across the globe.

Whether you are looking to add embroidery to your personal style or are interested in expanding your business’s product offerings, this trend is here to stay. By following a few simple guidelines for embroidery, you can ensure that your customers’ projects turn out perfectly every time. Stitching specifications, file and stitch count management, and special considerations for side areas are just some of the things you should keep in mind when selecting a design for your embroidery project. To get started, reach out to a company like ThePatchio for help with designing and producing embroidery for your customers’ custom clothing and accessories.